A Recipe for a Simple Polish Soup
When my mother was
in her late 70s, she couldn't cook for herself any more. Her heart and
her back had both given out, and she couldn't stand for more than a minute or
two. When you can't stand, you can't cook.
So she started
having her meals brought in by a charitable organization in Sun City, Arizona, where
she lived after my dad died. This food wasn’t much to speak of even
though it didn’t cost her more than a couple dollars a day: Salisbury Steaks,
tuna salad sandwiches, little cups of salad, vanilla cup cakes--stuff like
that, five days a week. They would bring a white bag of this everyday just
before noon, and it was expected to last her through lunch and dinner.
On the weekends she was on her own. Sometimes, she would try to
prepare something simple for herself, a bagel sandwich with cheese or a bowl of
cereal. She didn’t like to impose on
people, but sometimes she would ask a friend to bring her some chicken from KFC
or a piece of cooked ham from the deli section at the Safeway
Supermarket down the street. She would microwave this food Saturday and
Sunday. Monday, she would wait for the guy from Meals on Wheels to
bring her another bag of ham or egg or tuna salad sandwiches.
It was like
this for about four years.
She didn't
complain much. My mom had spent two and
a half years in a German concentration camp and that kind of punishment teaches
you something about complaining. But she
did complain about one thing when it came to those meals: the tuna salad.
She had a gallbladder problem and the onions in the tuna salad were hard on her
gall bladder. She would try to pick the tiny shards of onion out of the
tuna salad, but this got harder and harder as her eye sight gave out.
(When she finally died, it was after a gall bladder operation. She
survived the operation, but she had a stroke afterward that shut down her whole
body. But that's another story.)
When I would come to visit her four or five times a year, she
was always happy to see me because she could invariably talk me into cooking
for her. This was no small feat. I
hate to cook, and I hated to work around my mother. Like I
mentioned, my mother had spent two and a half years in a Nazi concentration
camp, and she used to joke that what she knew about discipline she learned from
the Nazi guards in the camps. She expected you to follow orders, and she
expected you to do it right the first time. There was no screwing up
allowed around her. If you did, she would freeze you out, turn her
sarcasm against you. Call you a baby or a fool. Tell you that even
though you were a college professor, you still couldn’t boil a stinking
egg!
Like I said,
I hated to work with and around her, but I cooked for her when I came down to
visit. What choice did I have?
My mom knew I was
a fool with my hands, that I couldn't make the things she really wanted to
eat, those Polish staples that she grew up with in the old country like pierogi (dumplings stuffed with cabbage)
or golumpky (cabbage leaves wrapped
around meat and rice), but she also
knew that she could talk me through some simple dishes. Navy Bean Soup was the one she had me make
most often. Not even a fool could ruin
it.
We would start
making the soup the night before by putting the beans in a pot full of a couple
quarts of water. This would have to soak
overnight. The first time she had me
make it I asked her why I just couldn’t follow the directions on the package,
and let the beans soak under boiling water for a couple hours on the day we
were going to make the soup. She just
looked at me and shook her head.
Then the next day,
the day we were actually going to make the soup, we would start early in the
morning, so that the soup would be ready for lunch.
I would chop up
about four good-sized onions. They had
to be chopped really fine because of my mother’s gallbladder problem. As I would chop, she would watch from her
wheel chair. Some times she would think
a chunk I chopped was too big, and she would point it out.
“There, that one!”
she would say. “Are you trying to kill
me?” And I would chop it some more with
this old, skinny-bladed knife that she had been honing for 30 years until it
was just a honed wire stuck in a dirty yellow plastic handle.
Then I’d fry up
the onions in about four tablespoons of butter.
I’d fry them until they were caramelized, a sort of hot brown jelly with
an oniony smell. This would take about
an hour. Meanwhile, I would be chopping
up everything else, a half pound of carrots, two or three pounds of any kind of
potato, 3-4 stalks of celery. It didn’t
matter how I chopped those up. My
mother’s stomach had no trouble with them.
It was just the onions that were a problem. So I chopped everything else pretty
rough. Personally, I like big chunks of
stuff in my soup.
I would take these
chopped vegetables and add them to the frying onions and cook and stir all of
that for about ten minutes on a low flame.
Next, I would add the beans and the water they were in, along with too
much pepper and salt. Salt and pepper
were the only spices my mom ever used, but she liked them in abundance.
At this point my
mother would stop watching me. She would
figure that there was no kind of damage I could do to the soup, so she would
wheel her wheelchair out of the kitchen and into the living room where she
would turn on the TV, The Oprah Winfrey Show or the Noon News or anything else
except soap operas. She hated soap
operas, all that talk and people who were worried about stupid things.
I’d cook the soup
for about an hour, maybe longer, and then I would carry a really large blue
bowl of that hot navy bean soup to her and place it on her TV tray. She always said that she liked to eat like an
American, on a TV tray. So while I was
finishing up in the kitchen, she would drag the TV tray up to her wheelchair,
and she would ask me to put the soup right there.
I would and as
soon as I did she would start crumbling saltine crackers into the soup. They were the final touch.
We would eat this
soup just about twice every day I was visiting, lunch and dinner. If we ran out, I would make some more. It was better than the stuff my mom got from
Meals on Wheels.
She never said
that, of course. My mom wasn’t the kind
of person to hand out compliments. I
guess that was something else the Nazi guards taught her in the concentration
camps, but I knew she liked that soup because of the way she ate it. She never complained about anything while she
was eating, not about the onions or her gallbladder or the spices.
The only thing I
heard from her as she spooned the soup was an occasion whispered “mmm.”
It was thanks enough.